How to make skin GLOW

The skin is the largest organ of the body and is certainly the most visible. It is continually repairing itself and maintaining its status, even though constantly exposed to the elements.

Ageing of the skin is divided into extrinsic ageing - which encompasses photo-ageing and the damage caused by various toxins such as alcohol, drugs and smoking - and intrinsic ageing, which refers to the breakdown of DNA at a chromosomal level, with a resultant loss of structure of the skin.

Ageing decreases antioxidant activity. It promotes a reduction in SOD (super oxide dimutase) and catalase, as well as leaving energy cell repair and renewal diminished and antioxidant enzymes less available. Dehydration is the most prominent, yet easily corrected, cause of accelerated ageing, particularly of the skin. An intake of two litres of water per day, and the exclusion of diuretics, such as coffee, will slow down ageing.

Sunlight damage to the skin can be avoided with the use of SPF factor 30 and a high dose of oral antioxidants. Astaxanthins, with vitamins A, C and E, are also protective.

Skin ageing is accelerated by sun exposure, cigarette smoke, environmental toxins, poor diet, excess alcohol consumption, stress and lack of sleep. One way of counteracting these risk factors is to ensure the diet is rich in fruit and vegetables, increase the intake of antioxidants, as well as direct topical application of antioxidants.

Antioxidants with a low molecular weight, especially vitamins C and E, and and alpha-lipoic acid, exert protective effects to help combat free radical damage. Topical vitamin C esters and vitamin E prevent oxidative damage.

When applied topically, alpha-lipoic acid turns off messenger nuclear factor kappa B (NF-kB) and decreases glycation and pore size, resulting in the decrease of facial lines. Liposome delivery technology ensures a better application to the inner layers of skin. Internal nourishment for patients can be listed in nine steps:

   1. Eliminate processed foods from the diet, including high sodium, sugar and saturated fats.
   2. Eat fruits, berries, vegetables, whole grains, nuts and seeds, as well as small amounts of protein.
   3. Drink two litres of water per day.
   4. Avoid fried foods and barbequed meats.
   5. Limit the intake of alcohol to one or two units daily.
   6. Eat food fich in antioxidants, such as peppers, berries, spinach and cruciate vegetables (cabbage, cauliflower, and brocolli).
   7. Take vitamin/mineral supplements.
   8. EFPs, omega 3s, oily fish, walnut oil, hemp seed oil and perilla oil. If eczema is present, use evening primrose or borage oil.
   9. Take vitamin D3, 400IU per day.

Recommendations

Sunscreen -the most powerful and effective anti-ageing cream is a sunscreen. While UVB radiation causes mottled pigmentation, it is the UVA rays that penetrate deeper into the dermis and account more for degradation of collagen, leading to the production of wrinkling and telangiectasia. A sunscreen that has an SPF of 30 or higher, combined with a high UVA filter (graded by a five-star system) is recommended. There are numerous sunscreen formulations offering high protection but are light enough to be cosmetically acceptable.

Topical retinoids -the first report on the anti-ageing properties of topical retinoic acid (tretinoin) was published in 1986; by the early 1990s, it had received FDA approval for photoageing of the skin. Newer topical retinods have been tested, but retinoic acid appears to be the best retinoid for anti-ageing. This compound is a prescription item in most countries, and so cosmetic companies use retinol, a precursor, in their formulations. Retinol is about one-tenth the strength of retinoic acid.

Glycolic acid -this compound improves skin dyspigmentation, softens and moisturises dry skin and, with continued use, increases collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan production, leading to increased dermal hydration and thickness.

Vitamin C - this is a co-factor for the production of collagen.

A good skin prescription involves the four main compounds applied topically. Retinoids are best applied at night. The daily use of a sunscreen, even in the winter months, will prevent further damage to the skin and allow regeneration.

An anti-ageing regime commenced early in life will have more of a preventative rather that corrective role, with little immediate improvement seen, and should be considered as an investment in the future.

Vitamin C preparation will be available shortly at
Medical Cosmetic and Spa 

About the Author

Dr Alison Duncan Dr Alison Duncan qualified at the University of Liverpool Medical School in 1983. She has worked as an NHS consultant specialising in pain and symptom control. Initial training in cosmetic medicine was undertaken with Dr David Dean and Dr John Evans at The Ascot Cosmetic Skin Clinic. She has had the opportunity to train in advanced cosmetic medicine under Dr Elisabeth Dancy, Dr Lucy Glancey and Dr Cecilia Tregear, internationally renowned practitioners and trainers, based in London.

Categories: Press, Products, Treatments

Tags: Anti-ageing, Antioxidants, Retinol, Sunscreen, Vitamin C

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